I like ships. The bigger the better. I love their complexity, their smell, their lifestyle, their isolation on the ocean. 

So when the boss called for volunteers to go on a South Seas cruise on the Norwegian Star, I wasn't backwards in coming forwards. 

We boarded in Fiji last week, in the middle of one of those legendary tropical downpours. Earlier we'd been out on the pilot boat filming her arrival from water level. Only problem was getting back ashore at low tide. Much to my surprise, Fiji has mud. Cameraman Daniel Marzolla and soundo Alex Morrison and myself got a workout getting our camera gear back on dry land. 

And another workout when we stepped aboard. This is a big vessel. My cabin, 3005, on the lowest passenger deck, was small, but well laid out, with a direct-dial satellite phone, TV, and shower and loo. Incidentally, if you do want to tell your friends what life is like on this ship, it'll cost you $9.95 a minute! So keep those calls short. 

From previous experience aboard the QE2 and Canberra, I knew that the hardest part of this shoot would be simply climbing and descending a total of nine passenger and three engineering decks, day after day. Luckily the ships four elevators were working well and we saved quite a bit of legwork with all that heavy camera equipment. 

What I wanted to do most was follow the founder of Norwegian Capricorn Line, Sarina Bratton, on her daily tours of inspection from stem to stern, funnel to engine room. By reputation, she's a stickler for detail with an amazing memory. She smiles and chats constantly and reputedly never loses her cool, but in the words of one investor in the project, "she always gets her way". 

This was a shake-down cruise, preparatory to being based in Sydney for future cruises, so I thought she'd have her hands full sorting out thousands of little concerns, and I was right. 

The ship was full. All cabins occupied, all 800 passengers doing their own inspections and evaluations. The biggest whinge I heard on board was the price of beer. Aussie beer was being sold at $3.50, American beer at $2.50. Some passengers thought the local drop should be cheaper. And it will be on future cruises, down to $2.70. 

But coming on board in Sydney will be 150 types of Australian wine, and a new cuisine based on fine local dining. I can't comment on the new food as I haven't tried it, but the menus for my four days between Fiji and Auckland were superb. Food quality ditto. Service ditto. I genuinely couldn't fault it. 

Four days after getting on, Auckland appeared and it was time to fly back to Sydney. Caught a cold on the plane and it's a stinker, but I wouldn't swap those four days for anything. If you're an experienced cruiser you'll love the Norwegian Star ... she's a graceful, deep-hulled, well-laid out lady offering real four-star service and amenities. You won't find yobbos or football teams ruining your holiday, nor will you be intimidated by prices, as on the super-liners.